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Fixing Viewsonic LCD Monitors VX924 VX922 VX724 (VS10162 VS10049) Update… by Brett

It’s been over a year since I wrote my original article detailing how I fixed a VX924. The post has been one of the most popular on the site and has sparked tons of interest from fellow DIY’s. Since then, I’ve repaired dozens of this series monitor and thought it’d be wise to elaborate on my previous post.

IMG00870-20100720-1107

The fleet I repair consists mostly of VX924’s, with a few VX922’s and a couple VX724’s mixed in. The repair procedure has been the same for all three. Let’s get familiar with the VX924. After flipping the monitor on to the screen (helps to lay out a towel to prevent scratches) remove the screws on the four corners of the panel. A swift pull upward on the base while holding the silver trim down should separate the two halves. It’s not uncommon to break a plastic retaining clip in the process. The screws will hold it back together when it’s reassembled anyway.

 IMG00962-20100806-1543 IMG00969-20100806-1644

The monitor above on the right is a VX924 (VS10162) while the monitor on the left is a VX924 (VS10162). No, that is not an error. They are both the same model. They even look the same from the outside. Once you pop off the back though, you can start to see the differences. I’m going to refer to them as notched (left picture with the - indentation) and unnotched (right picture with + indentation), you’ll see why in a bit. So, if you have a monitor like the one on the right (unnotched) I have good news: you’ve got the easy one to take apart and easy to fix. For you notched readers, this one is slightly more involved to take apart and repair, but I wouldn’t say it’s “hard”.

For both: We’ll start by removing the screws circled in the above pictures and carefully unplugging the cables I’ve drawn arrows pointing to. If there is aluminum tape over the connector, it’ll need to be removed gently. Then pull on the connector and not the cables to remove them. It may help to use a set of angled needle nose pliers on the backlight cables.

 IMG00963-20100806-1544 

For notched boards: The next step is to lift out the tray you just unscrewed and flip it over, like above. Remove the circled screws.

IMG00964-20100806-1546

For notched boards: Next, remove the signal connector standoffs. If you have a 5mm socket and driver around, they come in handy! After the standoffs are removed, flip back the clear plastic protector, and lift out both boards a bit.

IMG00966-20100806-1548

For notched boards: Now you’ll want to separate the two boards. If it helps you can unplug the logic board first.

IMG00970-20100806-1645

For unnotched boards: Push the panel you just unscrewed away from you, then flip it up as pictured above. Then, unplug the backlight cables by pulling on the connector, not the cable. It helps if you use a small pair of needle nose pliers to assist in grabbing the connector. Next, remove the four screws holding down the inverter/power supply board. Finally, push on the AC connector to loosen the board and then pull the board to the left to disconnect it from the logic board.

IMG00973-20100806-1649values

For both: With the inverter/power supply board out, you should be able to see the problem. Bad capacitors. Also, as you can see in my picture above, the difference between the two boards. One has a notch cut out of it (FSP043-2PI01 P/N: 3BS0101313GP) and the other is rectangular (FSP035-1PI01 P/N: 3BS006431C). I’ve also labeled the capacitors in case you forget what goes where. Replacement is pretty straight forward as I’ve outlined in other articles.

IMG00995-20100812-1356

I typically replace all but the largest capacitor with their high temperature counterparts of a different brand.

IMG01005-20100812-1801 IMG01004-20100812-1800

You’ll still want to inspect the large capacitor. It doesn’t happen often, but on a couple, it did blow. As you can see above, it sprayed all over the transformer. Awesome.

A time-lapse video of me fixing a VX924 (notched)

Once you’ve got all the capacitors replaced, reassemble (duh?) and test.

Chances are real good this fix will repair your monitor but, I have 2-3 monitors that won’t come on even after performing the replacement. I’m looking in to the reason and will update this paragraph with that info when I learn what it is.

Well, back to work. Only about a dozen left to fix today. :-)

IMG00997-20100812-1438

104 comments:

Anonymous said...
on

Great post on the VX924!!!
If you find the fault on the units that still aren't working after the re-capping. It would be great if you would let us know your solution.

Thanks in advance,

John

Anonymous said...
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sometimes, the transformers go too if you get voltage spikes...

Anonymous said...
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Finding replacement transformer(s) could be a difficult process from what I've heard..

Anonymous said...
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Hi Brett,

I have the ps board that is pictured on the right.
I was hoping you may be able to give me a few resistor values from this board.
Beside C661 is R336 1/4 watt,
measured 16K..also, R112 & R320 would be a great help.
Thanks !

j said...
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Would you happen to have an extra notched board I could buy?

Brett said...
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@ Anonymous:

R336 looks to be Brown Red Red Silver Violet, so 1.2 Kohms @ 10%
R112 looks to be Orange Orange Orange Gold, so 33 Kohms @ 5%
R320 looks to be Yellow Violet Grey Gold, so 4700 Mohms @ 5%?

Anonymous said...
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Hi Brett,

Thank you for getting back on the resistor values so quickly.
Hope you come up with the cure on those boards that are beyond just re-capping..
I may be working on the same problem as well.

Thanks!

John

Brett said...
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I've got parts on the way, we shall see!

GreekSeal said...
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Hello I have the vx910 monitor but come to find out the part numbers are the same on the board 3bs006431c

So here is the problem Monitor was working slight surge screen went dim a little then blank. I turned it on light is steady green but blank monitor only when i flip the power button off and then on the monitor works for 3 sec and then blank, but power light steady green what the prob thanks...

GreekSeal said...
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This comment has been removed by the author.
Anonymous said...
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I have Fujitsu W19-1 with identical(notched) power board. Had a friend replace faulty caps but don't remember which way the 4 little 2pin connecters go. 2 are pink/white, 2 are black/white. Please help! Thanx....

Brett said...
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@Anonymous

You'll be delighted to know that the order does not matter. Just plug them all in and you should be good!

Anonymous said...
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I have a VX924 with the un-notched boards. Several of the electrolytics are crapping out and will be replaced, but the reason it failed is because C24 blew up. It is a red dipped cap marked H154JK over 250MPP2. I noticed some folks have gray plastic box caps instead of these dipped style caps. Ever seen this before? Thanks.

Nick

Amatuer Gun Guru said...
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I don't care if I fix the monitor or not but thanks for writing this article! I needed a list of the caps for this board and could not find it anywhere! Great article!

William said...
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I'm so glad we were able to help you out GunGuru.

james walton said...
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Hi, great site!
My VX924 turns on the OSD and sets the contrast to the minimal value on its own; I opened up the monitor and couldnt find anything that looked like the culprit.
any ideas?
Thanks!
james(dot)kw(at)hotmail(dot)com

matheos said...
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please can you tell me the number on the chip at U101, it's a 6 pins regulator just under the big capacitor

Brett said...
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@ james walton:

You might have a bad or stuck button board. That's the board that has all the front panel buttons on it. I'd try unplugging it just after it powers on to see if it doesn't stop.

@ matheos:

I looked though 7 different monitors and found lots of *101's but no U101 or 6 pin IC's. What board do you have?

matheos said...
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@ Brett :

It's from a FSP043-2PI01 P/N: 3BS0101313GP)

it's looking like a Transitor screwed on a straight heat sink... probably a power regulator. The case is like a to-200

Tank You!!

Brett said...
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@ james walton:

Found that board in a pile here. Oh! Now I see. On some of the VX924's thats a 3 pin N-Channel MOSFET (Mouser part 511-STP6NK60ZFP, Manufacturer part STP6NK60ZFP) but on that board it appears to be a dm0565r and that is a Green Mode Fairchild Power Switch (PDF Datasheet: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FS/FSDM0565RB.pdf)

matheos said...
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Tank you very much!! i've ordered that with somes capacitors and diodes to fix that bord..

It's always a good idea to note your bord model number because many bord can be found in other manufacturer product : my lcd screen was an Acer :P

Anonymous said...
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Thanks for putting this together!

I have a (noob) question about capacitors, though I have a fair amount of experience with soldering:

looking at digikey, mouser, and others, I'm not sure which specs are important to match (beyond capacitance and voltage) and which I can fudge a bit.

Specifically, I bet I want the lowest tolerances (for capacitance, I assume) that I can find/afford, but what about impedance, ESR, ripple current, etc? Can I use a cap rated to a higher voltage?

I ask because I am having a hard time finding exact matches of caps for my VX724...

thanks, in advance!

matheos said...
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Anonymous :

it's always better to have low ESR and High ripple current

i suggest you this thread :
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=425

Anonymous said...
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Thanks for your efford to keep this site open.
I have one problem that i cannot solve.
I have replaced som capasitors a year ago, but now, the screen starts to schake and blure a few minuts after i turn it on.
It may be tehe transistor CEF04N6 on the power supply but im not sure.
Where can i buy this transistor?

Thanks
Stig from Norway

matheos said...
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if you want to be sure about the problem, try to cold your transitor with a cold air can. something like this : http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/403a.html

.. your chip seem to be hard to find you probably have to find a replacement.

Also you can try to add thermic paste behind

Anonymous said...
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Thanks Matheos i will try with some thermic pasta.
I have serched for a replacement but cannot find anything here in Norway.
Anyone have any idea where to by a eqvivalent to this transistor?

Anonymous said...
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I changed all the caps but the screen only comes on for a few seconds and goes blank. Any idea where I should go from here?

matheos said...
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You can try plug inverter output to an other lcd screen. Your ccfl bulb can be burnt.

Dont forget to plug the vga cable cause the screen will go in stanby.

try this very interesting thread :
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting

Anonymous said...
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Matheos,

I tried what you suggested and plugged the inverter output into a VX910 monitor and had the same results. I put the entire power supply and inverter boards from the VX910 in the VX924 and it worked. My question now is what parts are bad the inverter boards or the power supply?

matheos said...
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The Inverter and the powersupply are on the same bord. Your logic bord is probably good (the bord who manage the picture) Inverter manage the ccfl (cold cathode only and power supply give power to all component. To find what's is wrong, you really need to read the link I sent. It talk about testing your powersupply

Manuel said...
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Hello guys! I have this board, FSP043-2PI01, and the u101 transistor have 6 pins and stay just under the big capacitor, but I can't find which it is because is broken. PLEASE, can someone tell me where is it?

Thanks a sorry for my english. :^)

matheos said...
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@ Manuel

read before post....you will find the answer somewhere in this post as they say..... RTFM !!!!!

Paul said...
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Could you post the mouser part nos for the capacitors please? Cant read them properly on your storage bins.

Miguel said...
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Hi There!

What a nice post! Helped me a lot! I replaced all the capacitors on the power suply plaque. It starts, for 2 seconds then the image desapears. It turns all black.

Who can I fixe it?

Nuno

Martin, Denmark said...
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Would have thrown my VX924 out, if I hadnt stumbled upon this guide! Bought the electronic parts and followed your (easy) guide, now my screen is back to life for another several years! Thanks, awesome work, pictures and video!!

John said...
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Great post! Thanks! I have a very naive question. Forgive me. How do I replace a wire that came undone from the gray connector that I believe goes to backlight the screen? This is the same wire under the foil that you mention one needs to be careful dislodging. Clearly, I wasn't careful. There appears to be part of the wire in the gray end-connector. What do I need to do? Buy new connectors? or can salvage?

John said...
on

Great post! Thanks! I have a very naive question. Forgive me. How do I replace a wire that came undone from the gray connector that I believe goes to backlight the screen? This is the same wire under the foil that you mention one needs to be careful dislodging. Clearly, I wasn't careful. There appears to be part of the wire in the gray end-connector. What do I need to do? Buy new connectors? or can salvage?

matheos said...
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solder it to the bord

Matthew said...
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Hi. My VX924 died about 2 years ago and it was shelved. Just pulling apart now, all filter caps are ok, however this screen did go with a 'bang'. On the reverse side somewhere below R321 its gotten very hot and showing copper track. There is a black mark left on the screen casing under the board.
I cannot see any damaged SMD resistors or damaged parts. This is the FSP035-1PI01 version.

You don't happen to have a photo of the reverse side, particularly around the primary filter capacitor? Else is bench testing time.

Cheers.

matheos said...
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you must check the big power regulator on the heat sink with a multimeter.

Also you can have worst capacitor with no damage.. you should check transistor with a multimeter

Andrew said...
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Hey Brett. Thanks a bunch for the great article. I've got a question. Although I wasn't very careful in pulling it all apart, do I need to worry about discharging the big 400v cap?

If so, what is the best way to do this? I don't have a big 5w or 10w cap, and i'm not very comfortable with just shorting the leads because I don't want to fry anything. The big cap is the only one that isnt bulged.

matheos said...
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after a while, the big capacitor must be discharched by him self, but if you want to be sure, take a light bulb (better if he got a socket) and plug it to the capacitor with crocrodiles clips you can check if the capacitor is still charged with a voltmeter

Andrew said...
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Thanks Matheos. I realized I had my monitor unplugged for long enough it probably didnt matter. so i just went at it no problem.

my other question though... should i be concerned with the white goop at all? do i need to replace it if it comes off with some of the capcitors, like c244, c241, and 10v 470uF?

matheos said...
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oK you're talking about silicone... no you dont have to.

Antonio said...
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Hi, I have one of these monitors and it as gone with a boom when I plug it to mains.
I opened it and found out that the IC U101 was cracked open, I replaced with other but it still doesn't come on. All the caps are good at view, the fuse also good.
What can I search next?
Also will it be worth to search a secound hand board to replace this one? My board is a FSP043-2PI01 P/N: 3BS0101313GP

Thanks

Dale Brenton Paterson said...
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Hi,

I hope this blog is still being monitored because I've got something REALLY strange to tell you / ask you.

I have two VX922 monitors. Some time ago they both started with the 'blinking green light, no display, leave for a while, turn on, fine, until you turn then off and leave them off for a while, blah, blah, blah' problem. They were sent to the agents here in South Africa and fortunately back then they were repaired under the Viewsonic warranty (which was extended if memory serves me correctly because of this very issue). After a few months: one of them started to do the same thing but the agents were not prepared to repair again under warranty. So I figured well it's already broken so I may as well try replacing the caps myself. I replaced all of them (except the big one) with caps with equal to or slightly higher capacitances and the same with the voltage (equal too or slightly higher). Plugged it in: PERFECT for a good few months (remember that up until this time I still had another VX922 that had been working fine and was still working up until today). Eventually though: the monitor that I'd repaired myself started going faulty again but this time in a slightly different way i.e. it was not the 'green light flashing issue' but this time it would turn on for a few seconds and then black screen (as I said green light not blinking but constantly on even with the black screen). So this time I took to a third party repair shop that told me it was the inverter and that they were not prepared to fix it. So all this time I've been working with the one monitor that had originally been repaired by the agents UNTIL TODAY.

(Sorry: I know this is a long story but THIS issue is not detailed ANYWHERE on the Internet and definitely not here either).

(Actually it's SOOO long that apparantely I have to split it into two comments).

Continued ...

Dale Brenton Paterson said...
on

Continued ...

Heres' where it gets interesting. The monitor that I have been using, that was originally repaired under warranty by the agents, started with it's 'green light blinking' issue (actually it's been doing it for a while but always eventually started up but today it just started getting on my nerves). Let's call this MONITOR 1. So: figured I'd take the power supply out of the now broken monitor (the one that I repaired) (let's call this MONITOR 2) and put that into MONITOR 1. Switched on: same thing started happning with MONITOR 1 i.e. on few a second or two and then off (black screen but steady green light). In other words: my PSU repair exhibited the same problem in MONITOR 1. So I figured 'what the hell' let me just TRY MONITOR 2 (that now had the supposed faulty power supply in it from MONITOR 1) and I'm now typing you this message using that monitor!!! In other words: the SAME power supply that didn't work in ONE monitor works in the other BUT the other monitor that has my REPAIR in it, is doing exactly the same thing on both monnitors!!! How is THIS possible???

Whew. After all that I guess two questions:

The only noticeable difference between the two is that there is a jumper on the PSU board that was placed in a different position. Where should this jumper be and what is it for?

Where can I purchase TWO (or maybe even FOUR) of these PSU/Inverter boards from?

Unfortunately: I bought both of these monitors when they FIRST came out and they cost me an absolute fortune (at today's exchange rate a US Dollar or so 'shy' of $714 each). That's problem number one. Problem number TWO is the fact that they are just 'so damn fine' (when they work)!!! Many times I've looked around to replace them with some more 'reasonably priced' monitors of the same size but I've yet to see monitors with this clarity and lack of 'ghosting' (or whatever it's called i.e. the reason I bought these particular monitors was because at the time I was doing a lot of video editing and they were 'guaranteed' to not have that 'lag' or 'ghosting' effect with movement amd such 'guarantee' they have at least lived up to).

As I noted: sorry for the EXTREMELY long story but it's strange is it not??? Any ideas??? I'm thinking that I'd rather just replace the PSU's/Inverters and keep one or two spare. I've had these monitor now for about five years by the way. Is my 'logic' OK or is something else almost at 'end of life' (they never get swithched off by the way i.e. they're always on but with a screen saver).

Regards,

Dale Paterson.

Dale Brenton Paterson said...
on

Hello again.

Sorry for adding to my already LONG comments but could you tell me this:

It would appear that the part number is not that 'big a deal' i.e. here is the full (part?) number that you've given:

FSP043-2PI01 P/N: 3BS0101313GP

While that P/N is hard to find I've managed to find LOADS of places that have the 'FSP043-2PI01' board or model number that looks identical to mine (with the cutout). It would appear that this particular PSU/Inverter is used in MANY different makes / models of LCD monitors not only Viewsonics and I've found prices that range anywhere between $8 USD (re-furished) and $79 (new).

What you do think??? Worth a chance ordering??? From my LONG previous comments I've deduced that with both monitors that monitors themselves are fine and it's just the PSU/Inverter boards that need to be replaced.

Regards,

Dale.

oscaryankee said...
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This also applies to the VX912, which also has the same model number VS10162. My one has the power supply FSP035-1PI01. Hopefully the replacement of capacitor no. 4 in the photo will do the trick (it was definitely bulged)fingers crossed!

dfpsnet said...
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Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation.

Rather than changing the caps, can i use this board http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350454383052 for vx922 ?

The board available on ebay is FSP043-2PI01S and the one i pulled from monitor is FSP043-2PI01...rest the layout looks exactly same.

Please advice...

Brett said...
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@dfpsnet

I would try it. It certainly looks the same. Good price too.

dfpsnet said...
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@Brett.

Thanks, just ordered it.

Will update here how it goes.

oscaryankee said...
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Brett,
Thanks! Capacitor swap worked for a while.
Symptom is a little different, but the three lower of the 4 panels are affected as before.
Sometimes all 3 go black for a while.
Do you think it still is the problem with the powersupply board?

Anonymous said...
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Hi Brett,
Do you know where I can get the Transformers for my Viewsonic VX912 ( FSP035-1P101 PN 3BS006431C ) ? I am also trying to find a couple of the Transistors. I damaged these AND the Capacitors !!!
Thanks,
Bernie.

Anonymous said...
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Hi Brett!
I had the same problem as most people - flashing green light and having to turn off/on the display to make it work. I have replaced all the capacitors exept the big one and the 50v one since they were fine BUT now when I turn the display on (connected to PC) the solid green light is there and the screen seems to turn on but there is no picture at all. I checked all I could multiple times and nothing. The only thing I noticed is that the capacitor do not hold charge at all after disconecting the power cord. Is there a bleeder resistor there or is somthing wrong? PLEASE help!

Anonymous said...
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Hi Brett,
Never mind my quastion above. I fixed it. I had to resolder the connections. It seams that even soldering job looked good I eather did not established solid connection the first time OR have acidently made a micro conection to the surounding pathways on the PCB (I could see a tyny path under 10x magnification). Now, I am experianced with soldering (level 2)and have multiple certification (even surfice mount QC certification) since I had worked as SM machine operator (the machins that place electronic components on the PCB) JET I have still made this beginer mistake! So please, everybody that hase the no picture (turns of after being turned on) problem after capacitor change, resolder the caps even if the soldering job looks good. Hope this helps somone.

Emu said...
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Sir.

I have ViewSonic VA912 19". When i ON the Monitor. Its ok. But after few minute that going Dark, n Sparking n going Half Black..

Please give me Solution..

Thankx

Emad

Electro said...
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Hi, been having issues with my vx924, where on power on it goes white screen, if I leave it to warm up a bit and toggle the power button it comes on ok. Also, I have noticed that if the screen has a dark image or black , that often makes it whiteout aswell. I can still see the desktop icons when this happens from a very steep angle to screen, but only just. Any ideas what is causing this? If it could be logic board would I be able to fix it?

Brett said...
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@Electro:
Yes, I've seen this before on other LCD's and it usually turns out to be a logic issue. Sometimes can be traced back to a BGA chip or cold solder connection.

Jez K said...
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Bret, I replaced 3 caps on the Power Supply board, re-assembled it together and then put it on. As soon as I did, the image came on for one second then it went black.

I opened it up, looked again. Couldn't find anything wrong, put it back together. powered it on. Windows comes on for one second then screen flashes that image every 4 seconds and the green light is flashing?? Please can you offer advice.

Brett said...
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@ Jez

I've got a few that do the same. I've tried a few things (other caps, transistors..), but nothing yet has worked.

Anonymous said...
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Thanks for the nice pics. I just repaired my monitor. Nice work.

Mike Sommer said...
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Sadly, very sadly I replaced all the caps on the PSU, plugged it in to tested, and the Logic Board smoked right next to the power input section. I of course double checked my work 3 times (this is not the first time I've re-caped anything)and all looked correct.

Picture of section that lost its smoke:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/disneymike/DSCN1664.jpg

My question are:
1) What are the voltage readings on the pins?
2) Does anyone have a good Main Logic board to sell > B-00002519 < ??

Here is a PDF of the service manual
http://michaeljaylissner.com/archive/viewsonic/VX924-1_SM_1a.pdf

THanks

Mike

Anonymous said...
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I didn't have money to buy a new monitor, and with your help the old one is working again.

Thank you very much!!

lv said...
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@Dale Brenton Paterson

Blinking led (power) indicator and black screen (no backlight) issues are most likely due ccfl's are going to its end of life, that overloads inverter and/or activates its protection. ccfl service life is a few thousands hours (or just few years @24x7). Such ccfl tend to consume more current, one even won't light at all. What's really *important*, that for every single ccfl there is current and open voltage protection, that actually shutdowns whole inverter (all ccfl) if it turns on. So, even one bad/exhausted (or missing, broken) ccfl will result in no backlight.
There are a few things you can try:
1) increase current limit, by setting (current limit) jumper in the power/inverter board;
2) take another panel aside and try to swap every single ccfl (actually connectors) with ccfl from another panel, seeking for a combination, that works stable. If it won't — proceed swapping two ccfl and so on (suppose, that it's possible/feasible to change/reassemble ccfl in the panel).

Helton said...
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Hello,
Im wondering if I need to change the caps on the other circuit board? (the green one, I believe that is the logic board?) a few of the caps seems a little bit bulged
Thanks :)

Helton

William said...
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Helton, If they do not look like they are good, I would replace them.

Helton said...
on

^ Thanks, I changed all the capacitor except the big one on the power supply board, but it still doesnt work. I am having trouble desoldering the caps on the logic board, it just wouldnt melt. Any suggestions?

Brett said...
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@Helton

The logic board caps are tricky even for me. I hate 'em! Make sure the tip of your iron is wet with solder, this will help transfer heat to the small contact area on the board.

Shad0WeN said...
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@Helton

You may want to consider replacing the main 400v capacitor on the power board as well. Even if doesn't have any visible abnormalities it doesn't necessarily mean that it is operating properly?? Mine had a very slight bulge that wasn't too noticeable but I replaced it anyhow. From what I have read, the CapXon brand capacitors they used are not very good or reliable.

Shad0WeN said...
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Just wanted to say thanks for posting this great article!!

Early last month my VX924 began experiencing some problems with flashing on/off on a cold boot after working fine for about 6 years. When it first started happening it would take a few minutes to "warm up" & stabilize before the flashing would stop. As the weeks passed by it became progressively worse, taking longer and longer, until last week it finally became completely unusable.

Anyhow, fortunately I had just gotten the replacement capacitors, hoping that they would remedy the problem. I didn't feel 100% confident it would work, partly because I have very little experience with soldering, but decided to give it a go anyway. I replaced all the caps on the power supply board with Panasonic ones from www.mouser.com, including the main 400v. Presto, all is working perfectly now!! Thank you so much for this guide!! Definitely saved me some cash, which I don't have a lot of right now :)

Anonymous said...
on

Thanks for the great video. I have a Optiquest Q20wb (ViewSonic) with the notched board. I replaced the bad caps and had a question about the backlight plug-ins on the board.
I realized, after removing the 4 backlight plugs (two at the top of the board and two at the bottom), that I forgot which upper plug goes to which upper socket. I took a WAG and put the monitor back together. Works great again!
My question is…does it not matter which upper backlight plug goes into the either upper connectors?
Just concerned, in case it will work either way but shorten the life if plugged in, in reverse.
Thanks again for the instructions…total cost of repair $8!

Anonymous said...
on

Excellent site
replaced the 7 caps on viewsonic vx922 Unfortunately when I start it up it has a green color, instead of black ....black and white text are OK but any photo is awful

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated
Thanx

Anonymous said...
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Just for the record and search engines:
Fujitsu-Siemens Scaleoview X19 - 3
L9ZA is build likewise, also has Power circuit board FSP043-2PI01S (only different P/N 3BS0132612GP)
Only Housing disassembly is a little more complicated

Anonymous said...
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I just want to say thanks. I fixed both of my VX924s with the help of your instructions. The CAPs burnt out on both my LCDs this year! Their manufacture dates are 2005 and it is now 2012, so that's 7 years and now I'll have to see how many more I can get out of them with the new CAPs. Thanks :)

Anonymous said...
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Replaced C24 on my Fujitsu-Siemens Scaleoview X19 monitor, and voila, it's good as new! C24 actually showed some corrosion from leaking electrolyte.

Did not have any 470uF caps at home, so i parallelled 2x220uF + 1x100uF = 540uF.

The other 470uF caps are next in line to replace (they have minor bumps on top), but there is no room there to do the parallelled-small-caps-mod here. Bottom line is, monitor works now.

2005 was the worst capacitor manufacturing year in history, right?

Thanks for all the info!!!
Best /Mikael

Anonymous said...
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Just followed your directions to repair an old LCD I found about to be dumped. A few dollars worth of capacitors and 30 minutes later, all working just fine!

Thanks.

Anonymous said...
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Hello, the monitor turned on and off many times. I replaced the capacitors and it worked.

After a few weeks the monitor does not power up, either the LED.

Please give me an advise what to do, it must be a simple thing.

I have an idea, perhaps its the fuse, but i don't know where it is.

Board: FSP035-1PI01 P/N: 3BS006431C

Thanks in advance for your help and a great BRAVO for your site.

William said...
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Thanks for the great feedback.

Sometimes with monitor repair there can be other things that go bad with them and the capacitor trick doesn't fix them. It sounds like your having a power inverter issue, and that's a bit different fix.

Anonymous said...
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Thanks for your answer. I am thinking to buy a board from ebay. Do you think its the power board that has the problem and not the other with the chips?

William said...
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Unfortunately my speculations wont fix your monitor. All that I can really do is speculate. =\

Anonymous said...
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I understand. Can you please tell me what voltage the 6 output pins have, so i can measure them with a multimeter`?

Anonymous said...
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Hi,

I just wanna say thank you so much.
Replaced the 6 caps like you mentioned for the unnotched board and now its working perfectly, hopefully for the next 7 years (bought it in 2005).

Again thanks for your much appreciated help!

Pedro

Kori27 said...
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On those boards, which don't work after capacitor replace: Take a look at the controller IC (dm0565rb) and the ZD121 (this is a 10 volts smd zener diode next to the opto, it can be faulty: shorted). I have a power supply with burnt ic, and when it coulden't start after ic and cap. replace, I found the faulty diode. Just give it a try :D

pepito said...
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Hi all,

As instructed I changed all the capacitors, but the monitor does not just signs of life, not light even, someone would know tell me what other component could try to change and that I should have the output voltage of the 6 pin, now has become a challenge!
thanks

pepito said...
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This comment has been removed by the author.
Squbel said...
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Thx Bret, excellent manual. I've just fixed my 6y old viewsonic display. My symptoms were somewhat unusual. Display would switch on and off all the time - normal picture for 1sec and than black screen for 2-3 seconds. Replaced all but the largest capacitor and display is back to normal.

Anonymous said...
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Perfect instruction! Fixed my VX922 (3 capacitators) a minute ago. Interestingly, the monitor worked at the native resolution but not with lower ones (green blinking power LED).

Thanks a lot for your help!

cheers
Stefan

Jhon Conrado said...
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Hello
I burned the integrated U101 and I need reference. thanks

VX922 monitor your serial plate FSP043-2PI01

Anonymous said...
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I have only two of these monitors, both unnotched. One of them was fine after re-cap, but the other had a bad opto coupler (PC330, an 817B). It worked temporarily while frozen with freeze spray or I would have had a tough time figuring it out.

The symptom I saw was that the 12V output would start correctly then decay over time because the wrong reference voltage was being received, and repeat about every second (thus a blinking green light).

chevy nova said...
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ola tengo una pantalla vx710 y remplace el fusible y los condensadores pero no prende ni el led que puedo ser o alguna solucion

chevy nova said...
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ola tengo una pantalla vx710 y remplace el fusible y los condensadores pero no prende ni el led que puedo ser o alguna solucion

Martin said...
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My VP2130 blows the fuse at power on and on the PSU, model EADP-64BF B, I found that both the FET Q1 and the surface mounted zener diode ZD4 are shorted.
Does anyone know the specification and/or value of ZD4 ?
It only has 581 (or 5B1) on it which does not help much.

Martin said...
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To answer my own question concerning VP2130 and EADP-64BF B , I have discovered that 5B1 is the marking code for a 5.1V TLZ5V1B zener. It is in parallel with a low value resistor which needs to be removed before testing ZD4.

Anonymous said...
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Vx922 with a3BS0101313GP (FSP043-2PI01)...
Can you please show the order of the pink/white black/blue cables...I got them mixed up.

Thanks,
Jaime

Brett said...
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@Jamie

If you're referring to the cables that go to the bulbs on the left side out of the inverter, it's alternating current and there is no specific order. They will work as long as you plug it in to a connector correctly so it clips in place.

Anonymous said...
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@Brett

Thank you for replying. This is my first repair, and I am really excited about putting it all back together! Indeed, I am referring to the cables out of the left side of the inverter. There are two connectors (of two wires each) on the "top" of the left side & then the same on the "bottom." I think that I remember telling myself that the blue/black (wires) connector goes on the lower port of both the "top" and "bottom" sets of connectors. It really doesn't matter which connector goes where?

Thanks for the attention, Brett.

-Jaime

Brett said...
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@Jamie,

I never keep track of them. If they are keyed to be inserted a correct direction (face up vs down) that's the thing to pay attention to. Where they plug in at shouldn't matter. All outputs are for inverter to bulb. Which bulb, it doesn't care.

b3nJi said...
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Nice Tutorial!
Works also on a FSC Scaleoview L17-2
Thanks!!

b3nJi said...
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This comment has been removed by the author.
tink0027 said...
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Hi,

Thanks for this guude..Got the monitor working again but now I have sort of interference lines on my screen that change with colour temp or contrast... ever seen this before?..

Brett said...
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@tink0027:

No, not yet. My knee-jerk reaction would be to inspect the video logic board and cables to the LCD.

Tim Bell said...
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Thanks Brett...
I have noticed that a capacitor may be on the way out...so I've ordered the cap and will see.
Thanks again.

Anonymous said...
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hi just found this site (Russian) some really good photos etc,could be of use http://neyron-666.livejournal.com/879.html

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