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HP F1703/F1503 Repair by Brett

If you’ve come here because your HP F1703/F1503 LCD monitor is going blank, flickering, blinking, going black, or turning off, I may just be able to help. Most of the time, the monitor will start off fine, but after a few minutes or maybe a few hours, it’ll just go dark.

Your problem is heat related. When the monitor is cold, it will work just fine, but as it warms up, it’ll just blank out. Why? Glad you asked.


Cold solder joints (aka loose) usually on the chokes (Note to self: where the hell is that picture…) or diode pack (pictured, that one I found). Whatever the case, they may not always be this obvious, so you may have to study the board for a bit and even then, sometimes they are so small you won’t see them at all.

The fix is easy, even the novice solderer should be able to pull it off. Just heat up the joint until the solder completely liquefies; the component is solidly attached to the board. Depending on how bad it is, you may have to add a little more solder to finish the job. For those more comfortable with their skill, you may want to remove the old solder, flux the joint, and apply fresh solder to the connections.

I’ve done several of these, each was fixed this way alone. The bad news? Unfortunately, I think the connection will probably come loose again. I haven’t had to fix one twice yet (probably because I’m just that good…) , but I think it’s only a matter of time since it seems to be a design flaw.


Bob Davis said...

Thanks, I just got a shipment of these that do not work or just flash.

Anonymous said...

Thank you, i fixed mine !

Anonymous said...

can you elaborate a bit more about where these solder joints are, i can't seem to find them on my boards....or, maybe i have a different board ??

William said...

With a cold solder joint, they are not always easily available for notice, but with a little prodding around, you'll find a loose component, or a solder break.

What is wrong on this board is there was just a poor solder for the component.
If you are looking on the board, just warm up your iron and tin the tip, then if you see a component that looks bad, just re-heat up the joint so it flows again and move on.

I unfortunately cannot give you a better idea of where it is, as I do not have this board and it was Brett's article.
But, what I'm trying to say is, that it might not always be the component that he has labeled in this article.
I don't suggest a heat gun, you could damage the board or dislodge a component.

Just get a good light and get up close on it.

Bob Davis said...

Check around power transistors or anything that is fastened to a heat sink.

Find It